Thursday, April 26, 2012

Preliminary thoughts on working with the Peace Corps


Scroll all the way to the bottom for photos! 

FISHies:
Multiple parts of my life just collided and my mind was blown! Remember that "I want a Hippopotamus for Christmas" YouTube video? Complete with the suggestively dancing claymation dog? Well last night while I was studying in my host family's living room and suddenly I looked up, and their computer has that exact same image of the hippo and dog dancing!!! Except they are singing, I kid you not, "In the Jungle!" In French! Then the clip cut to Dora the Explorer. Singing in French. I didn't know what to make of this! I just sat there saying over and over again, "What??!" (incredulously as only Nick Holschuh can do best!) while my host sister, Nisa, cracked up!!
 
Language Slip-ups:

Every Monday my group goes to the neighboring training village, Bumiaji, to learn TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) with the 6 PC trainees there. The kepala desa (head of the village) there offered us soto ayam (chicken soup) for lunch, and you can't say no to the kepala desa! Upon returning home I tried to explain to my ibu (host mom) that I didn't eat a lot of the lunch she made because "Saya makan kepala desa." Literally, "I ate the kepala desa!" Whoops! Missing a noun in there somewhere!

Free Time
My group has started to playing poker during our free time so as to have a break from homework, studying, and speaking Bahasa Indonesia! We are totally not going to bet money, and candy was not handy to use as my kind of payment, so I pulled out the old Hunt House (maybe?) idea of betting truths or dares. I don't know what is going on, because the last time I played poker I was winning all over the place, even though I was eating my money (candy) at the same time! (That was for our Halloween party, St. Paul 2011, Scott's apartment, dressed as a housewife in Julia's bridesmaid dress...sitting next to a punk hipster (Scott), complete with makeup, fake nose ring, and red skinny jeans...)

Anyways, I think my group may be fascinated by the idea of what they may be able to make me do, as once again, surprise surprise, I have been labeled the "innocent" girl from the Midwest who does not swear, drink too much, or whatever else may be seen as scandalous, I suppose. It's funny sometimes, but being dubbed too innocent is not always fun, as it is hard to explain that I'm not a prude, I just don't do certain things.

Working with the Peace Corps
On the subject of fitting in with my group, it has been interesting for me to learn more about my co-volunteers. As many of you know, one of my biggest worries as I prepared to leave was what my relationships with the other volunteers would be like, as the Peace Corps stereotypically attracts young people who are not particularly practicing in their faith, if they even proclaim one. My small group alone has 3 other people who grew up in Catholic families, though I don't think they are particularly interested in practicing their faith. The larger Peace Corps group has a few people here and there (only women that I know of) who are practicing Christians. I have not had any real conversations with people yet about their beliefs and ideas, but I feel really secure knowing that there are a select few with whom I can open up and trust to understand where I am coming from.

Something that has been weighing on me as I think about what it means to work with the Peace Corps is the diplomatic aspect of being a volunteer. My language teacher pointed out that the Peace Corps in Indonesia is increasingly trying to place volunteers in Muslim schools to foster a better relationship between Muslims and Americans. I doubt that many locals read into my placement that much. For some reason, local people not knowing this underlying motive of the Peace Corps and the US government doesn't sit well with me. It seems somehow deceptive. I did not sign up to work with the Peace Corps because I wanted to work for the United States' foreign interests. I came to serve the Indonesian people by offering human, social, and cultural capital. I recognize that I cannot divorce myself from the fact that I am in a diplomatic position in Indonesia, in some ways a pawn of the US government. I figure the best I can do is share that I am feeling this way with Indonesians, so they learn about my motivations for being here.

I spoke to another volunteer who is interested in working in the future in diplomacy and working toward maintaining the US's position as the richest and very influential country in the world. I'm rather uncomfortable with this dominating position. After all, how is the US's dominance on the global stage that different than a dictator? Don't we dictate a lot of what other countries can and cannot do? We threaten to cut off aid, stop trade, etc if they don't do what we want. One may play devil's advocate by asking me would I rather that the US be a non-influential country? I would therefore have less power abroad. I truly do not know how to answer that, for that would mean a lot of the privilege I do get abroad for my white skin, English, and American passport would no longer exist. Can I really say that I would prefer that? Hmm, this all seems to tie back to my blog on white privilege (http://revealingtheinvisible.blogspot.com/), doesn't it?

Lea modeling a typical lunch, lots of fried food!

This is one of the snake that allegedly lives in the hills by my house, though this one is definitely from China, that I understood! The important thing is for you to see how big this baby is!

Mas Teguh, our cultural facilitator and DA MAN! At the warung I asked him if he wanted to play chess and he was like, "Sure, but I'm not very good." Then he proceeded to beat me 3 times in quick succession.

The view from the warung. B-E-A-U-tiful!

My language training village at the traditional village! I'll be living with all of them in Sidomulyo until June 15th, and then PC scatters us all over the place in East Java.

The motley crew getting ready to hike! My host brother Andi is on my right and my host brother-in-law Kamal is in the back on the right.

Approaching Gurung Banyak, "Swan Mountain" in the Javanese language...

On the way up, this was my method of hiking. Gasping, stop, eat, drink....

Andi and Kamal's version? Ploughing up the mountain in sandals. No water. Just smoking. What the heck!

We have reached the top! That taller mountain in the background is the one we are going to hike next weekend! I perfectly placed this shot so that you cannot see the massive sweat stain on my gut! AIE!

This man was just chilling with this bird!

Our first community mapping project. So 70s!

And this is my language teacher, Hengky....

Yes, he wanted to do two separate poses! He may look really intimidating, but he is very down to earth and hilarious! Always joking!



Saturday, April 21, 2012

"Sidomulyo!" "To the wall!" (our village chant, inspired by Mike!)

Celebrating Easter with my Indonesia host family! I'm holding a Peep!

Successful Easter Egg dying, the first night with my host family

Most of my immediate family on the left: Andi, Nisa and their daughter Nafa, and then Bu Mul in the middle. Our 3 neighbors whose names I can't remember on the right!


Indonesia health:

According to my friend Mike, our lives in Indonesia are so healthy. We wake up between 5 and 6:30, take a morning mandi (shower), workout (Mike, not me, I'm the 6:30 riser!), eat breakfast, learn for about 8 hours, come home and study, eat again, read/time to ourselves, and then bed between 8:30 and 10 PM! In addition, we do not drink or smoke. What a healthy life!

Well, for the record, not all of it is healthy. I am having a bit of trouble with mold in my house, so when I come home I sneeze uncontrollably for about a half hour, and my nose itches and runs. To remedy, I am taking some medicine and bought a fan to get some airflow in ma chambre (whoops, French! That seems to slip into my speech here at random times!) Aside from that, the only non-healthy thing going on is the fact that all Indonesia food is cooked in lots of oil (read: fried). Indonesians do not joke around about their frying. To name a few...nasi goreng (fried rice) is a staple, then there is mie goreng (fried noodles), tempe (fried soybeans), daging ayam atau sapi goreng (fried chicken or beef), and pisang goreng (yes, fried banana).

The Pasar Tradisional:

Luckily, I went to the pasar tradisional (traditional market) yesterday with my group and Mas Teguh (cultural facilitator and the BOMB!) to barter for fruit and veggies. This was pretty hilarious, as we can barely say our numbers. I have 1-8 down pretty well, but Indonesian money (the unit of which is Rupiah) is currently this exchange rate: $1 = Rp 9,000. That means that candy bars are Rp. 5,000, and a half a kilogram of beans (2.5 lbs is one kilogram) is Rp. 2,000. Therefore we have to think in big numbers. A lot! Fortunately for Americans, our money goes a long way here. I can buy important things, such as about a pound of laundry detergent, for about $1.15. Anyways, the pasar was really cool to go to. I saw many similar markets in Senegal and Togo, but I never tried bartering for the veggies or fruit there. My group also makes a lot of heads scratch because the average Indonesian thinks Americans are white, and my group of 6 includes myself and Sam (white), Tammy (Korean American, and a fellow Carleton students, '03!), Mike (Chinese American), Lea and Melanie (Latina). Peace Corps trainers said that some volunteers spend their entire two years of service trying to convince people that they are American at all. Yet another form of white privilege for me, as no one asks me twice where I am from.

Tammy and I, Carleton Grads! The mini-mountain on the right there is the one I climbed yesterday. Uffdah!


Anyways, the pasar was exciting! I got some duku, a fruit that is really hard to explain. Grape sized, you peel it open for the cloudy white fruit. It is so sweet! I also bought some veggies for my family, as I am going to try to cook tonight. The plan to cook hamburgers was thwarted when I learned that buying beef from the pasar entails buying a chunk of beef, not pre-ground. As in the beef chunks are hanging from a hook in front of the little hut and you walk up and ask them to hunk off a chunk for you. I could barely breathe for fear of smelling the warm beef that had been sitting out for hours. But I got my hunk, they plastic bagged it for me (I then proceeded to double bag it and use copious amounts of hand sanitizer!) and put in into my shopping bag, where this raw beef was to sit for another 3 hours before going in the fridge. I am sure this whole process was FDA approved!!!

FDA approved?

Why would one not buy a whole chicken, Sam wonders?!
Week 2 events:

This week, I have had a few adventures. I rode a Ferris wheel for the first time! The view of the mountains/hills by my house is amazing!

Batu town square

A view from the top of the Ferris wheel. Selamat datang di Indonesia!


Muslim Funeral Reception:

I also went to a funeral for Lea's host mother's grandma. I had to cover my head with a scarf to be respectful. We entered the house and all of the men were sprawled together over the porch, driveway, and first room. Many fewer women were in a small room in the back of the house. We sat, chatted with the women, and ate. The room was approximately 90 degrees and there we were in long skirts, long sleeved shirts, and a headscarf, eating spicy food. My glasses fogged up because of the heat!

The funeral was not what we expected. From what I can gather, when someone dies and they are Muslim, their family tries to bury them asap. The body is brought back to the home where the person resided and visitation occurs briefly. The burial comes next, and then, I believe, 7 days of prayer and eating. The only thing that we did at the funeral was sit and eat with the women. They prayed before we got there, but the main event is eating. At the end of the day, however, I suppose after we bury people in the US, we have the reception and eat and chat.

Warung Visit:
Another fun adventure, inspired by coffee addicts Sam and Mike, was to find at warung (small restaurant) to make our hang out! We found one, and the location could not be more peaceful or beautiful. While I live on a side street in Sidomulyo, I am not far from the loud main road. This warung was out in the farmland, an oasis in a beautifully scented place (Sidomulyo residents are most frequently flower and fruit farmers). At the warung, Teguh and I played chess and he beat me mercilessly 3 times. 

Sam is concerned about how this will affect his immune system...so far so good!

Melanie sipping a coconut!


 Then I had my first of probably many embarrassing moment in Indonesia. I politely asked in Bahasa Indonesia if there was a kamar mandi (bathroom) that I could use. The warung man was sorta like, "are you sure?" And I was thinking to myself, "Self, please! The only toilet I have used for the last two weeks is a hole in the ground surrounded by porcelain. I have to squat to use this toilet, and there is no toilet paper. Of course I can use this man's squatty potty!" (Explanation: to yuse the bathroom in Indonesia, you pour water on your bum with your right hand, whilst wiping yourself with your left hand, no toilet paper. Then you wash your hand very, very well!) Anyways, he said "something, something, something kamar kecil," which means something, something, something small room. I said, "Tidak apa apa! (no problem!) I don't care if your bathroom is small. So all the Indonesians were like, "OH!" (little did I know why...) So I innocently followed this man to what I assumed was going to be his house. Instead, we turn into his plot of farmland, walk through a row of small bushes, and he points to a sectioned-off area. I'm thinking, okay, interesting location for a toilet, but alright! I enter the small enclosure (surrounded on three and a half sides by 6-foot brick wall and see....a river. This bathroom was simply the river running by, and the walls were built over the foot-wide river. How embarrassing that all of the Indonesians in the warung knew now that the white lady who can barely speak their language was squatting over the river peeing. Oalah! (Bahasa Jawa for "oh my gosh!"). Well I went to the bathroom in the river, and sheepishly returned to my group and the warung full of Indonesians laughing at me. Aie!

Take a Walk!
Another adventure in Batu (the region I'm living in) this week was my walk with Melanie and Sam. We were venturing around, and ended up in the next village over. As we were walking, suddenly a man was yelling at us, "Hey!" from about 20 meters away. We sorta slowed down but kept walking, until the man said, "Sam!" Sam realized it was a member of his host family and laughed! We went up to him, I met him for the first time, and he invited us to see his workplace. Sam added that he was a fisherman, so it was not surprising when we turned the corner and saw large cement pools for the fish. However, he then took us over to some cages by the pools, and there were huge snakes! GROSS! We couldn't figure out if they were there for people to eat or there to eat little animals, or there to look at...No time to ask more questions because then he turned another corner and there were...monkeys, peacocks, birds, and an otter in cages. "What is this, a remotely located zoo?" we asked each other. He said it's not a zoo, but his workplace. Why the snakes, Melanie and I ask again, frightened. Still lost in translation. We concluded that they captured them from the nearby mini-mountain that we were planning to climb (we are still going to do so, just with better knowledge of what to expect I guess...gulp!) When Sam went home that night, he asked the host brother more questions about his workplace and why all the animals were there. Our conclusion is that he is simply a fisherman who secretly also works in a private zoo!!!



Bule!
On a completely different topic (my Carleton friends can attest to how bad I transition into new, minutely related things with a quick, "speaking of _______, ...") it turns out that hardly anyone (if anyone) screams "Bule!" (white person) at us when they see us. Instead, they yell, "Hello!" and "How are you?" in English. I have gotten multiple, "Hey Mister!" comments as well. My first goal in Peace Corps (PC) Indonesia? To explain to everyone who calls me 'mister' why I am NOT a 'mister' but a 'miss!' Haha!

Just a little Jalan-Jalan

Let me preface this by saying that "jalan-jalan" translates to "walking for fun."

Yesterday Sam, Melanie, Mike and I coerced my host brother Andi and my host brother-in-law Kamal to go hiking with us. As we approached what can only be described (in my opinion) as a mini-mountain, people kept saying, "Jalan-jalan?" They simply wanted to know where this motley crew was going. We energetically responded, "Ja, jalan-jalan!"

2 hours later, at the top of this massive hill, I was not about to call that intense hike a nice "jalan-jalan." The whole way up was steep, and incredibly steep in some places. Melanie and are a wheezing to a plateau to rest. As we crest the uphill turn, there are and Andi and Kamal (Andi is wearing flip-flops, mind you!) smoking. Not breathing heavily, not popping snacks or pounding water like myself, but smoking! OH MY GOSH! How they were doing this I do not know, but that was the moment when Mike and Sam simply said, "Your host brother is a bad@$$!" Gee whiz!

The view from the top was totally worth it, however! And while I sit here typing about how intense that hike was, I would (and will) do it again in a heart beat! After spending so much time sitting in class all week, I yearn to climb these big hills (about 2x bigger than the bluffs at Devil's Lake in WI, and significantly less (aka NO) nice trails. Just a foot-wide dirt path.

But it would not do this hike justice if I did not also mention that as we approached the top of Gunung Banyak (Swan Mountain in Bahasa Jawa), I saw terraced areas where people were FARMING! WHAT?? People walk up this hill every day to farm? That is insane! However, when we got to the top, we discovered that there is a paved road up the other side that the farmers and tourists use more frequently. Sheesh! But again, I wouldn't change that sweaty hike for a car ride up! Many people were taking pictures and those willing to pay to paraglide jumped off here (which I may do, as long as they permit those partaking in said paragliding to scream one's head off for the first 2 minutes in the air).

A Day of Rest (Istirahat!)
Well those are the main highlights of this week! Today is much more low-key. Tried to write a letter in French to Ignace in Togo and that was ridiculous. After ten years of studing French I had to stop frequently to remember the most basic words. Bahasa Indonesia is taking up my brain space! In about an hour I am heading over to my friend Lea's house to learn some traditional dance from her ibu, who is a traditional Javanese dance instructor. Should be dramatic!

So Apa kabar (what's the news?) in the US? Has Mitt Romney won the Republican candidacy yet? I suppose I could take an extra sec here to look it up in this internet cafe, but it's more dramatic to ask! Any engagement announcements?! Snow in MN/WI? Dog-teeth being pulled (how's Snicks, Mom and Claire??)

Please shoot me a FB or email message, or comment/question here about anything. Can't wait to share more pictures with you all!























Monday, April 16, 2012

What is Sarah doing in Indo?

Hello again from Indonesia!



I write from my first Indonesian internet cafe experience. I am with my other sub-village PC group members. We can currently hear the last call to prayer of the day by the local mosque. I just finished updating my goggle doc for PC volunteers with my phone number (082139698457, plus some*international area codes probably, but idk which! Mind the international calling/texting rates, and be aware that I'm 12 hours in the future from Wisconsin/Minnesota!)

I have moved in with my host family whose last name I cannot tell you because Indonesian families do not use last names! My quarters are tight but full of laughter and hard work! Bu Mul is my 50-something yr old ibu (mom), Andi is my 29 yr old host brother (kakak laki-laki), his wife (istrinya) is Nisa, their precious 2-year old daughter is Nafa (pictures to come!), my host sister (maybe 26?) is Mala (kakak perempuan), and I just found out she has a husband< Kalam?? who now lives with us, too! Yikes! More on the living situation later. 

We live in the sub village of Sidomulyo, one block off of the main road through Batu, a region in East Java. Each of the PC training groups (there are 8 groups), live in Batu in different subvillages. I'll be with these new friends until June 15th.

Here's our daily schedule:

Minggu (Sunday): Hang with my host family

Senin (Mon): TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) class in Bumiaji (nearby subvillage with another group of 6 volunteers) from 8 AM to 3:30 PM.

Selasa (Tues) - Kamis (Thursday): Bahasa Indonesia class from 8 AM to 3 PM with Pak Hengky (pronounced, I kid you not, Hankie.) He's the best language facilitator ever. Basically, we go to class, laugh with Hengky for 6 hours, and learn some Bahasa Indonesian in between! Right now, I can ask very useful things, such as: "How long was your shower (mandi)?" or "What color is that shirt?" YES! Hengky is a 50-something teacher of Bahasa Indonesia, so he is used to working with Americans. We sit barefoot in class, listen to him literally fall to the ground laughing (literally), and talking about drinking beer, which would be taboo for anyone but Hengky, a Catholic!

Anyways, 3 to 5 PM we hang with Mas Teguh, a 30-something Indonesian guy who is also the BEST cultural facilitator. Basically we walk the streets of our village and bombard him with questions about Indo culture, including how to get a significant other (simply say "I love you" to a close friend and bam, you are dating!), how to properly offer someone something to eat (use the RIGHT hand!), and how to buy a cell phone (read: let Teguh talk, and the Americans just stand there looking good!)

Jumat (Fri): Friday is hub day, so we go to the Universitas di Malang to meet all 46 volunteers and do lots of training. Last Friday we did cultural training, a welcome by the President/Director of the Universitas, medical sessions about safe water and food, TEFL with Valya the Ukranian rockstar trainer, and more cultural training from Betsy, the American rockstar trainer. I have been so impressed by the experience and support of the PC trainers. I fedl very supported, safe, and cared for at all times!

Sabtu (Saturday): Hang out time. This week we had to buy phones, so we rode 3 angkots (like a shady public bus) 2 hours to Malang to the mall (pretty much an American mall, weird!) to buy supplies!

I have to go home before Bu Mul freaks out (though last time I came home after dark, she was just napping on the couch, undeterred!) and do some studying!

One fun story, first. I taught my entire extended family "Go Fish" with Andi and Nisa's help (because they speak English so well, like practically fluently! I have to work on getting them to stop that, though!). We got to the point where I needed to "Go Fish" and Bu Mul needed to tell me that, so I prompted her to do so. She turned to me and yelled, "Go Piss!" YES! Some things are so quality when said in an accent!

That's all for tonight, folks!

Love, Sarah

Friday, April 6, 2012

Selamat Malam di Indonesia!


Selamat malam di Indonesia!
Good evening from Indonesia!

Hello everyone! These last few days have been filled with:

Exhaustion: 13.5 hour flight to Tokyo, 6.5 hour flight to Bangkok, 2 hour hotel stay, 3.5 hour flight to Jakarta, 1 hour flight to Surabaya in East Java! We are then up each day by 6:30 AM and our time is booked until 5:30 PM.

Classes: Bahasa Indonesian instruction happens in small groups of 6 people, my language teacher Henkgy (pronounced "Hanky"), and my cultural liaison Teguh. We did 3 hours of class yesterday and 3 hours today. I know a smattering of words that are very, very useful; now I have to commit them to memory. Here are 2 of the most important phrases!
a. Maaf, saya tidak tahu. (Sorry, I don't know!)
b. Maaf, saya mau tanya! (Excuse me, I have a question!)

Some of the more quality mnemonics we have created to help us learn Bahasa Indonesia:
a. Amerika serikat (United States)- second word sounds like "Sarah's cat" said very quickly
b. Bagaimana tulisannya (How do you spell...)- second word sounds like "tulip lasagna!" Thank you, Melanie!

Odd dreams: I am taking Mefloquine pills once a week (Semalat Malaria Thursdays!) for malaria prevention. This can lead to "vivid dreams." This includes: a dream that my sister Lizzie is very upset at me for not spending enough time with her prior to leaving for Indonesia (come on, Liz, we said goodbye 3 different times!), as well as a dream about Devon, a fellow volunteer, being exposed as a convicted murderer- yikes!

TMI about bathrooms: Medical training today included a 45-minute discussion on how to use the squat toilets. For your viewing pleasure, please consult this very informative (read: ridiculous and hilarious but true) YouTube clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKkryfdtMNQ


Good Friday! Turns out, my intention to explore what it would mean for me to identify as Protestant is harder here than one may think! Indonesia has 6 religions, one of which each citizen must identify as his/her own. (Indonesia is a country of much diversity; their motto is "Unity in diversity.") These 6 are: Muslim, Catholic, Protestant, Buddhist, Hindu, and Confucianism. Anyone spot the road bump? Yes, that's right, Catholics and Protestants are two separate religions. As in, Indonesians say that Protestants are Christians and Catholics are, well, Catholics. Wow! Imagine how hard that is going to be for me to wrap my head around.

That being said, it is Holy Week and I really needed some quiet reflection time during this busy time. Also, I have yet to meet another volunteer who is a practicing Christian, so I'm a bit lonely. I was looking forward to a room full of Christians. Whoops, I mean Catholics! I went to mass tonight at the local cathedral. Here are some reflections on that:
a. I told Hengky about the conservative bishop in Madison, WI not allowing women's feet to be washed on Holy Thursday and how I disagreed with this exclusion of women. He laughed and said that here, women and girls did not get their feet washed, either.
b. Anyone who is interested in racial discourse would have been equally disturbed to walk into this huge cathedral today and seen the large painting of white Jesus. Ugh, can we dispel this image already?   
c. The entire mass was in Bahasa Indonesia, so I understood about .05% of what was said! For this very reason, however, I fully embrace how the church follows the same mass format worldwide. This provided a lot of comfort and familiarity today in a world that is very different from my own quartier.
d. I learned the three most important concepts for Christians! Allah bapa, Yesus Kristus, dan roh kudus. God, Jesus, and the Holy Spirit.
e. The gospel reading was divided into multiple roles, just like the scripted plays many churches back home use during Holy Week. However, this gospel reading was sung rather than spoken. It sounded beautiful, but it became a bit long to sing two whole chapters of Johannes (the Gospel of John; I assume that Johannes stuck after Dutch colonialism).

Thanks for reading, and that's all for now, folks! Interested in a quick Bahasa Indonesia lesson?

Q: Nama anda siapa? (What is your name?)
     Nah-ma ahn-da see-ah-pa
A: Nama saya ___________! (My name is __________!)
     Nah-ma sigh-a...

Sampai jumpa!
Goodbye