Thursday, June 28, 2012

The Art of Patience


If there is anything that I have learned from the Peace Corps over the last year and a half (this includes the time I waited to see if I was accepted to serve), it is patience.


I had to be patient for months before I knew if I had, as we all said in preparing to graduate from Carleton, "a future!!" When I finally knew that I had "a future!" after Carleton, I still didn't know what country I'd be going to, or when I'd be going. Admittedly, I hoped the Peace Corps would change their minds about East Asia and tell me I was going to West Africa.

But my part in Tikkun Olam was destined to be elsewhere, Indonesia. Leading up to my departure, I had a heavy heart, worried about learning a new language, learning who Indonesians were and how they were different (and the same) as me...

Now I am here and my patience paid off! That makes it sound like I had a choice in being patient or not and I chose to be patient. Let's be honest, I didn't have a choice, or as I like to say here, "Tidak ada pilihan" (there aren't choices!) So while I was patient not by choice but out of necessity in waiting to come here, now is the time that I can really hone my patience skills, and believe me, people, I have!!

Here are some examples of trying to be patient in Indonesia...read: I really wanted to scream during these situations (or maybe cry...there is a whole spectrum of emotions here!), but I'm the only American many people will meet here, so I need to act normal. Aka I can't tear at my hair and jump on a chair and act like a wild animal and scare people away. That will just confirm that Americans are strange.

All this being said, I've only been here for 3 months...imagine how patient I'll be in 2 more years...

Anyways, example #1 of my patience tested...


"Mister, mister, photo, photo!"
The offenders...and they look so sweet and innocent...

If there is one thing virtually every Indonesian has, it is a camera phone to take pictures with your local bule (foreigner). This translates to sweet, innocent children (from elementary school to high school) in a school classroom turning into photo-hungry monsters as soon as the lesson or program is over.

As if taking pictures when you are sweaty and annoyed isn't bad enough, I don't understand why some students are so pushy about it. Like physically pushy. Some people cram into the photo and shove me and I literally almost fall over. Half of the photos that they take are probably of me falling over, or gritting my teeth and trying to stand my ground while they push me over so they can get into the picture...

Photo-taking is a time commitment here. The time commitment exists because every last person wants a photo with you and herself individually. It doesn't matter how many times I politely say, "Satu lagi saja, sama semua" (only one more, with everyone), the individual photos of me and one student continue. Eventually, after usually about 5-10 minutes, I have to calmly walk away before I start pushing people over, too.  

The worst part of this picture-taking is not the fact that it takes time, or that I'm sweaty and red, or that I'm ten feet taller than everyone in the picture, or that I'm being pushed over. It is the flood of emotions that comes during and after taking the pictures.  

For someone who, Alhamdulillah (thanks be to God), has not really ever felt objectified as a woman, one day of photo-taking in Indonesia leaves me wanting to cry at my objectification.

Now while I think I can safely assume that the young people who want to take a picture with me are not trying to objectify me, knowing this does not mean I have to stop my natural reactions to a situation. And man, do I feel objectified. Even more so when I'm almost shoved out of the picture because of people pushing me. This makes me feel that the goal is not to get a picture with a friend and English teacher, but to get a photo with the white lady to show one's friends later. The request for a photo does not come after knowing me for a week and spending time getting to know me, it comes after seeing me for one minute and simply wanting a photo with a white person. I become an object to show off rather than a friend or a person.

I realize that my point of view is skewed because I am only expressing my opinion rather than allowing students to share their side of the story, too, but everyone needs a moment to vent, so this is my moment. That being said, it is not everyone who objectifies me and shoves me over in a photo. Adults are usually very polite. University students are educated about respecting the person with whom you want to take a picture. Boys take one or two photos all together. Some girls shyly ask if they may take a photo, and bonus, they may ask in English! But the general horde of teenage girls in the school setting is pushy and objectifying and it drives me up the wall.

I almost lost it one night at a small festival when I was talking to a principal. His students gathered around while we were talking and started taking pictures. Okay, that's life. But one girl's stupid camera phone had a flash on it, and she extended her arm over everyone else to get closer to my face, and pressed that flash button right in my face. Let's just say that that flash could have been the light at the end of someone's tunnel...

"There is still work to be done here:" Skin Color in Indonesia
Indonesias have beautiful complexions! I only wish they could see this, too. These are 2 girls from my school.


My host nephew (L) and brother (R), chilling in the living room.  


It is simply a fact of life here that I am beautiful since I have white skin. I finally worked up the courage to ask someone who was constantly calling me beautiful if she called Indonesians beautiful, too, or just me. She said she calls everyone beautiful, not just me, but I have yet to hear her call an Indonesian beautiful... 

I have taken this opportunity of being called beautiful all the time to turn the tables on the complimenting person and tell her she is beautiful, too. And then when someone pats my arm and says, "kulit putih, cantik," (white skin, beautiful), I launch into my explanation of how many white people in the US like to be tan because tanner skin is considered more beautiful in the US. Tanner, like an Indonesian's skin. I think the general reaction has been either disbelief that this could be true, or blatant disagreement that that it is stupid to think that tanner is better.

Patience.

I'm not sure if this next anecdote should be under the heading of patience or under a heading about breaking my heart. But this is truly what someone said to me...

"Sebelum kamu pergi ke sini, Sarah, aku takut bahwa kamu akan punya kulit hitam, seperti orang dari Africa. Dan aku takut orang yang punya kulit hitam. Mereka bukan orang baik."

(Before you came here, Sarah, I was scared that you would have black skin, like an African person. And I'm scared of people with black skin. They are not good people.)

Well good God, what do you say to that?

I took a deep breath and asked her why she thought that. She said she just did. I asked if she'd met a person with black skin. Nope. So I resorted to a simple explanation about how people with black skin are just like us. They are nice, they work hard, they are smart. Simply having black skin doesn't make someone a bad person.

I also was honest and told her that it was hard for me to hear her say that because I did not feel the same way and that her belief that black people are bad made me sad. In my broken Indonesian, I went right into a explanation on the source of a lot of racial problems (or at least what I believe to be a major source of many racial issues), colonization. I explained about how in Indonesia, the Dutch came and tried to convince Indonesians that white people are better. The same thing happened in many parts of Africa, too. At the present time, it is really frustrating for me to meet Indonesians who desire white skin because it is more beautiful. I think that belief is a result of oppressive colonization and continued stereotypes. I'm not sure how much of that appropriately translated, but she definitely understood that I disagreed with her and wanted her to learn more about race.

Patience. I have two years to help people unlearn that white is beautiful and brown is bad.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Posh Corps...


For those of you who doubted that I have been doing anything productive for the last 2 1/2 months...

Julie, Prez Kennedy and I!


Kenalkan. Nama saya Sarah. Saya beresal dari Amerika Serikat. Umur saya 23 tahun. Sekarang saya tinggal di Indonesia. Saya sudah tinggal di Indonesia selama 11 minggu. Saya belajar Bahasa Indonesia selama 6 minggu, dan Basa Jawa selama 1 minggu saja. Tetapi, kemarmin saya bertimu Rois, dan dia akan mengajar saya lebih banyak Basa Jawa! Saya senang sekali dengan keluargan baru saya di Mojoagung, dan semua guru-guru di sekolah saya ramah sekali. Saya harap bahwa saya bisa melakukan hal-hal baik selama 2 tahun!

Not perfect, but then again what is!

Haha! So here's some info on what's been up in my life the past week.

Last week I spent most of my time with other volunteers and the cultural facilitators, and yes, I may have been slightly freaking out that in a mere few days I was going to be on my own for the first time basically ever. On Thursday I met my principal, Pak S, who came for the principal conference.

My principal and I!

I was FREAKING out that morning. This was some sort of weird like blind date...meeting my boss for the first time. Was he the one who advocated having me at his school, or someone else? What if his is indifferent? What if he doesn't like me? What if we can understand a darn word the other is saying? AHHHH!

Fortunately, his is a very kind man who knows his stuff! After spending time on Thursday with him and driving to site on Friday with him (though thankfully another volunteer and his principal were in the car, too, to help foster conversation!), it was clear that he wanted me at his school and is going to help a whole bunch! His happiness is also apparently contingent on mine:

Kalau anda baik-baik saya senang, sebaiknya bila anda tidak baik saya jadi sedih.
If you are doing well then I am happy, but if you say that you are not doing well, I am sad.

Yikes!

Anyways, on Thursday I had a goodbye party with my host family, complete with donuts and pictures. It took all I had not to burst into hysterical laughter when my family decided the best photo of Bu Mul and I to take together would obviously be us lying on the living room mattress together. When stuff like this happens, sometimes I wonder how my friends think I am the crazy one!
Friday we finally became volunteers and has a beautiful closing ceremony. Everyone wore batik and looked amazing! The ceremony was quick: some greetings by important people, including the US Ambassador for Indonesia, Scot Marciel. A speech in Bahasa Indonesia by two other volunteers...very impressive! The Indonesian and American national anthem. And reciting the 10 Peace Corps Core Values in Bahasa Indonesia. After the ceremony, Ambassador swore us in with the same oath that all federal employees take, including, more or less the same, presidents!



Then came my hysterical crying as I freaked out even more than before that I was about to be alone. Oh my gosh. It was funny to see the volunteers like me who had tears, and then those who were like, "Oh brother. See you in three months anyways!" Well, we are who we are! And for the record, my host family cried, too, including my brother. But it was more like a few tears as our principals threw our stuff in the car and were like, "Let's go!" whisking us away to some remote location...

Which brings me to my new family! I was a little nervous upon arriving, but no big deal, just like 6 teachers to meet me, my host parents, and a slew of siblings! That is obviously an exaggeration! It was totally a big deal! Meeting your coworkers and family for the first time means you have to impress. Luckily, in words that Kelsea always uses, I was lookin' fabulous. While I will discuss more later about my struggle to come to terms with how posh  Peace Corps Indonesia is, at this moment I was glad to be looking good and having all the cosmetics I needed to do so!

Ido and I!


 It took me about 3 days, but now I can recognize who is in my family, who is extended family, and who is a teacher. Does that mean I know people's names? Absolutely not! The teachers think it's hilarious that I have a running list of who they are, what they teach, and maybe one fact about them. Such as Pak F: teaches religion and is responsible for the sign. See below.


Olah, what a big photo!


There are few times in my life when I have been truly embarrassed. The first is when Samantha took our cardboard cutout of Edward from Twilight, put a big sign on him that said, "Sarah Prather, I hate you for making me want you so much," and proceeded to put this on the balcony of the biggest common meeting place at Carleton. Thank you for that, Samantha.

Yes, I used your full name. You know what that means.

Anyways, this sign was the second time I have been totally embarrassed. I know that my school was trying to welcome me, but a huge sign of my big, white face? Olah.

My family is great. They are well-respected in the community and pretty, well, rich. My house is yet another mansion (who would have thought I'd live in two in my lifetime!).

Which brings me to the big discussion about what the Peace Corps means. I am not going to hide that I joined the Peace Corps still chasing the romantic idea of being in the middle of nowhere with no modern-day amenities. Instead, this is my house...

My new room! Don't worry, PC, the mosquito has since been put up!

The facade of my rumah!

The parlor upstairs

My fancy hallway

Kamar Mandi!


I know. Not quite a hut in rural nowhere. And my counterparts all speak English pretty well. And my school is beautifully kept. And the teachers have computers, internet, etc.

So what is my role here?

I do not doubt that there is something I can bring to the community, but my selfishness leaves me asking, what about the hardships and stripping away of comforts I wanted the Peace Corps to bring?

Maybe I'm jumping the gun when I say that I don't foresee some of these hardships happening, and anyway, why do I desire these hardships? Actually, my Peace Corps friend and I were having an interesting discussion about hardships. He was telling me about a class of his on Muslim and Christian martyrdom at Brown University, and he commented that the Christian idea of martyrdom can be manifest in many different ways. This includes how monks began to live in remote locations without the best amenities. It was considered giving up worldly things and struggling in order to be closer to God. I wonder if that is what I sought when signing up for the Peace Corps, in addition to wanting to serve in educational development. Huh.

 On a positive note, I think that I am going to fit into my family and staff nicely! So far all th teachers are really nice, want to hang out with me and just talk, and are very conscious of making sure I feel at home. I am so impressed that so many teachers and my host family have asked me about whether or not I was able to go to church. Everyone wants to help me find one to go to. There are three to choose from, and I will begin checking them out next weekend. About a 15 minute drive, and on Saturday night, so I'm not sure exactly yet how I'll get there because biking at night may not be my first choice. I will have to befriend a parishioner with a car!

My host family consists of A'ang and his wife, Nurul, and their son, Adira (2). They are in their mid-20s and Nurul and I are already becoming good friends. She really wants to improve her English and is very brave to constantly try! Udik (24), Iqbal (20) and Fahri (13) are my other host brothers, and Fitriah (15) is my host sister. Ibu and Bapak are in their mid 40s and early 50s, respectfully. Everyone is very excited to hang out with me, learn about American culture, and help me learn Basa Jawa. I am definitely going to take advantage of Peace Corps' offer to pay for a tutor for the first year of my service. To see people's delight when they hear me try to speak is encouragement enough to continue to learn. I don't know if it is surprise that a white lady can speak their language(s) or happiness that someone like me cares so much about the people here that I want to learn their language, but I am happy to be that-white-lady-with-the-ridiculously-large-picture-in-front-of-school-who-is-learning-Javanese!!!

Myself with 3 of the teachers, Bu Ifa, Bu Tatik and Bu Lilik (one of my counterparts!)



Like Vanna White in the library!


The library!




The B-ball court and the library in the background (the white building!)

The volleyball court in front

Thursday, June 7, 2012

On becoming Indonesian...


As my time dwindles down in Batu and I prepare to leave for Jombang, I am reflecting on how I'm feeling about life in Indonesia so far.

Selalu sakit di Indonesia
Always sick in Indonesia

I have had some sort of problem at least once a week, ranging from my eyes to my stomach to my head to my legs aching. Most of this is regular adjustment to the food and the climate, but each time I find myself back in the bathroom with issues at both ends, I pray that that is the last time this is gonna happen...it usually isn't.


Sudah selesai dengan 6 minggu kelas Bahasa Indonesia
Already finished with 6 weeks of Bahasa Indonesia class

I have finished 6 weeks of language training in Bahasa Indonesia and my test results showed that I am at an intermediate mid level. Allegedly this was good for the Peace Corps, as some got intermediate low and some got beginner status, but I could have just been told that to boost my confidence! Either way, I feel really confident in my Bahasa Indonesia, and I am excited to get a tutor for the next year to continue to improve. My host family has already complimented me on my language acquisition, which is probably one of the best compliments I have gotten here so far! 

Saiki, kelas Basa Jawa
Now, Bahasa Jawa class

I am currently taking one week of Bahasa Jawa which is, BONUS, three languages in one. The Javanese people are big on speaking to people of different ages and social standings with different levels. Not sure that I'm convinced that this is actually a bonus, more like a headache as I have to think about how to say one word 2-3 different ways...luckily, Bahasa Indonesia was created after Basa Jawa and borrowed many words, so some of the words that I already know in Bahasa Indonesia carry over into Basa Jawa.



Ngoko
("nGO-ko")
Krama
("Kromo")
Krama Alus
 ("Kromo Ah-lus")
Spoken with people the same age as you, same social status, close friends
Spoken with older, respected people in the community. When mixed with Ngoko, used to speak to elder family members, as this signifies a mixture of closeness but respect.
Spoken with, from what I gather, VIPs, like the President! But maybe also with local government officials, too.
Aku arep mangan.
I want to eat.

Dheweke duwe anak 3.
She has three kids.
Kula badhe nedha.
I want to eat.

Piyambakipun gadhah anak 3.
She has three kids.
Kula badhe dhahar.
I want to eat.

Panjenenganipun kagungan anak 3.
She has three kids.

As if life can't get any more complicated with this language, the Javanese love to shorten words. "Gak apa apa" becomes "gak pa pa" and numbers that are already only two syllables become one syllable by only using the last syllable. For a country with rubber time, I haven't figured out why there's a big hurry to say words faster!

First Impressions



As part of a portfolio project during Pre-Service Training, I had to ask my host family what they thought about me at the beginning, and what they think now. Based on the picture they received of me before I came, my host sister thought that I was about 28 and married (wow, did I look that good in the picture below?). I asked her it she thought that my husband was coming with me to Indonesia, and she said she knew he wasn't. Interesting that she was so nonchalant about the fact that I was going to leave my "husband" behind for 2 years...



Anyways, my host brother and his wife talked reflected on my curiosity, open-mindedness and enthusiasm. They think that these are good qualities to have in a new country; I agree! My host brother also said I was a little creepy, but he laughed hysterically as he said that. I hope that this isn't true...I think he was just excited to be using the word I'd taught him! My host sister-in-law also threw in that she thinks I'll be a good mother. Not sure where that fits in, but I'll take it!

Unexpected Experiences





Three friends and I attended an event on Monday that can only be described as the Indonesian version of a dance competition not unlike the movie "Step Up." Except this competition was linked to some sort of honorary military day, so everyone competing in the dance competition was either from the army/navy/air force/police, or the wife of the aforementioned people.


Basically, we went to see my friend's ibu (mom) and her dance students do traditional dancing. We figured there would be a stage and about an hour or two of traditional dancing in which various ensembles came onto the stage and danced.

Instead, the event was in a soccer field. It began with a parade of all the officials' soccer teams marching in with their similarly-clad teammates, like the Olympics. Then we got to sing Indonesia Raya, the national anthem of which I know approximately 10 words. Then the competition started...3 dance troops of 20-30 officers and wives danced at the same time. Each group danced to a traditional East Timorese song, "Poco Poco."  Meaning that each time 3 new groups came to the field to dance, the same song restarted. This experience definitely brought me back to Togo and how we constantly shrugged, saying, "Bienvenue à l'Afrique!" (Welcome to Africa!). We used this phrase whenever something that just blew our minds happened, but for the Togolese the bizarreness of the situation was totally normal.

But back to Indonesia.

Let's be real here, why would there NOT be Indonesian dance troops made of army men and their wives competing for 2 hours to the same song over and over again with dance moves that can only be described as straight from an aerobics class?!?!

 I rest my case. This is exactly like "Bienvenue à l'Afrique!"  Although for cultural sensitivity purposes, "Selamat Datang di Indonesia!"  That better?

The Enthusiastic Crowd!

This lady LOVED the boomwhackers!

Woo, go military dancers!

And the dance troops

Look at that center woman's pizzazz! Reminds me of Kels and Scott in tap dance! 

This group even had the sweatbands, just like aerobics class!


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Just to round out this post about how I'm feeling about live here so far...

Why I could live in Indonesia forever:
- Some of my clothes are different than people's clothing here and I am- let's call it what it is- super white, so I'm constantly called "cantik!" (beautiful). So great for my self-esteem!
- More organic food, albeit all cooked in oil...
- Lots of sweet food
- Someone is always willing to help you if you have any question
- You can go to a tailor to have clothes made for you, exactly how you want them, and you do not leave bankrupt
- Laundry can dry outside all year long!


Why I could not live in Indonesia forever:
- It has only been 2/27 months, and I'm already sick of white rice.
- My chocolate addiction is going to make me bankrupt, as chocolate is more expensive than most snacks.
- Eating salad results in being nasty sick because the lettuce was not washed in, I don't know, bleach or something! Yes, I am speaking from experience. Therefore, no uncooked veggies. Yet.
- Catholics and Christians are two separate religions. That's too much of a headache to try to figure out.
- Public, LOUD burping is not impolite, nor does it require an "Excuse me." I have yet to burp without saying, "Excuse me."

Sunday, June 3, 2012





Only 2 weeks to go in Malang before heading to my permanent site in Jombang! Some fun adventures have happened this week!

Below you can see photos from my photo journal with Teguh. We gave ourselves one hour (and some extra minutes...) to walk around the campus and the neighboring streets and take a picture of all the letters of the alphabet. We had to be in the photos, and had to take them in order. This led to some hilarious interactions with strangers!

The next day, Saturday, we went to Batu to buy some batik (note: I didn't get stuck in my shirt this time!). Then off to the mall to buy a guitar (yep, gonna try to learn again!) and some lunch at the food court...french fries and sate ayam (sauteed chicken, yum!)

Then to Heruh's house to see his 2-week old baby (OMG!) and play a little guitar.


Today we went to Teguh's fully UN-furnished house (how does one live on a mattress, rug, and one burner in the kitchen?!) to cook hashbrowns, french toast, and have fresh fruit! Teguh approved of the French toast! More pictures on that to come!

The Peace Corps staff, ready to kick of my photo journal with Mas Teguh!





Mas Teguh and "H" at the end of "Rupiah!"

I pulled a fast one on these Indonesian ladies and asked to take a picture with them...usually strangers ask me, but I asked them right back this time! Here we are doing the "Cherrybell" thing that is storming Indonesian pop culture now, under the sign with lots of "Ks." (A clinic to make oneself more beautiful, cantik)

Mas Teguh and the funniest picture, by far. "O!"

Can you guess which letter this is? Use the tree branches...

X!

This is Teguh, advertising for you all to learn about the Sun-Earth Day 2012! Go to google and check it out! It is happening June 5th and 6th only!